Margaret McCartney: Clean eating and the cult of healthism.
نویسنده
چکیده
The new way of eating is “eating clean”—healthy, whole, unprocessed foods. If only that were all: note the stacks of açaí berries, coconut oil, cashew butter, and the expandingwheat-free shelf in the more expensive supermarkets. More choice is a good thing for people with coeliac disease—but these products aren’t aimed at them. Bestselling cookbooks tell the public that they’ll look and feel better by avoiding wheat, dairy, and refined sugar. City centre juice bars offer similar promises to increase wellbeing (a favourite phrase). Last month I went to a new gym class. At the end the instructor dismissed the sweaty masses with high fives and directions to drink juice and rehydrate fulsomely. “If you feel thirsty you’re already dehydrated,” was the fear-mongering message, and I would’ve protested had I been less breathless. Many attendees took possession of pre-ordered portions of coconut water and miserable looking vegetable purées. Follow-up emails from the gym have included much anti-science: not just a clean but also an alkaline diet, numerous supplements, and standing upside down to detoxify.
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عنوان ژورنال:
- BMJ
دوره 354 شماره
صفحات -
تاریخ انتشار 2016